Suitable Fabrics For The Jemima Waistcoat
Let’s talk about fabrics!
The Jemima waistcoat is a classic ladies waistcoat pattern with the option for contrasting collar and pocket details. Princess seams add feminine curves and the multi-panelled construction allows creative freedom to play with fabric choices. After all that is what Fabworks is about … fabric!!
The basic rule of thumb when creating a semi structured (tailored) garment is, always put like for like fabrics together. The like being fabrics that are of a similar weight and handle. Fabrics with differing weights will tend to pull and disfigure garments, luckily for you we won't let that happen.
The Jemima Waistcoat requires stable woven fabrics such as:
- Medium weight wools
- Medium weight cotton & cotton blends
The weight and stable handle are the most important factors, you shouldn’t try to make this pattern from flimsy, unstable or stretchy fabrics. If your fabric is slightly lighter weight than the preferred stable medium weight, worry not, sewing your own creations means you can bend the rules. A lighter weight wool, a wool worsted or wool flannel suiting fabric can easily be given more structure by simply adding an iron-on interfacing.
So, what fabric to use?
The easiest way to decide is to firstly think about when and where you will wear your waistcoat. Do you want a waistcoat which will add an extra layer to your fine shirts and blouses throughout the spring, perhaps on a chilly summer evening? Or have you always loved the countryside and equestrian style, where sublime wool tweed is teamed with velvet and corduroy and your favourite white shirt and jeans?
Think of the seasons you encounter in your place of abode. If you live in a warmer climate you will probably want to choose cottons and linen based fabrics for your waistcoat. There are a host of stable fabrics to choose from that are ideal for a non-woolly finished waistcoat, try Cotton Drills & Twills or Denim fabrics.
Wool Tweeds are both stable and made from breathable natural fibres which are natural temperature regulators, keeping you warm and cosy, but will also adjust to the temperature when you are getting a little too warm. The colours and designs are vast and you have the option for playing with all that colour and design. The Jemima Waistcoat is also an ideal stash buster because of its relatively small pattern pieces. Wouldn’t a patchwork style multi-panelled waistcoat be absolutely fabulous?
Non Wool Options:
Drills & Twills, Denim, Linen
Hard-wearing, washable, practical & plenty of choice.
Create the ultimate go with everything Jemima Waistcoat by choosing your favourite or most worn colour palette. Tonal colours tend to go with more than contrasting colours. If you love blue and lilac tones choose a darker fabric for the body of your waistcoat to create a figure flattering effect. You can choose a lighter toned or patterned fabric to create the contrast collar and pockets. These guidelines apply to all colour ranges and give you plenty of scope to play around with which fabric goes where on the garment.
At Fabworks there is a wonderful range of fabulous jacquard-woven fabrics, these superb textiles have intricate & silky designs woven into them and can often be used on either side to create subtle contrasts, such as on the collar and pockets.
Medium weight Wool Tweed is a firm favourite for waistcoats. The additional layer of warmth created by a neat waistcoat is smart and reassuring. By adding a neat waistcoat to simple jeans, trousers, skirt, shirt and roll-neck ensembles, you can change your look significantly depending on the fabric choices of your waistcoat.
Imagine a garment which when teamed with your classic silk shirt, best jeans and loafers, transforms the outfit from an everyday outfit to a special occasion or feel-good outfit.
Like the classic Chanel style jacket which can be worn in so many ways, the Jemima Waistcoat can be made in super chic fabrics and trimmed with matching Chanel style trims and buttons to become a classic piece you will return to forever. We love the Mojito Houndstooth cotton blend basket weave fabric - this uber Chanel style fabric looks amazing teamed with the gorgeous Vanilla Ice Chanel Style Basket Weave. The cool minty green and chic cream tones are a match made in heaven. Create your own Chanel style waistcoat combining the two fabrics and add some matching velvet trim and pearl or gold tone buttons for the ultimate outfit transforming piece. A classic designer look for a fraction of the cost!